Posts

Nhớ Hà Nội (Thank You and Goodbye)

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Hello and xin chào! I'm shocked that a full year has just about come and gone, but here we are at the end of my time living in Hanoi. There aren't enough words to express what an insane and amazing time I've had here. On one hand, it has been much more challenging than I ever expected—I guess I don't know what I was expecting—but on the other, it has been much more rewarding than I ever imagined. Accordingly, it’s time for an overwrought, elegiac reflection on this place that I’ve called home for the past year. With every fiber of its being, with every banyan tendril draped over every questionably bundled tangle of power lines, Hanoi seizes you and reminds you that you are here and nowhere else. It is at once euphoric and infuriating, exhilirating and exhausting. It’s hard for me to grasp the fact that I’m really leaving. In Vietnamese, the word for “to miss” is the same as “to remember:” nhớ . If you say “Tôi sẽ nhớ bạn,” it could mean either “I will remember yo...

Scratching the Surface of Saigon

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Hello and xin chào! My time in Vietnam is rapidly coming to an end, but I managed to fit in one last trip while I'm here. A week and a half ago, I made a quick one-day trip down to Vietnam's largest city, Saigon. (Saigon's population is 8.6 million, compared to Hanoi's 7.8 million.) I flew down after class on a Tuesday night, and I flew back very, very early on Thursday morning (more on that later). Officially named Ho Chi Minh City, it's still called Saigon by nearly everyone in Vietnam. It was a fascinating contrast to Hanoi—as Vietnam's commercial hub, Saigon is far more modern and cosmopolitan. Overall, I left with a pretty mixed impression. As an expat, I loved all the trendy cafés and bars, but as a tourist, I was pretty underwhelmed. At the end of the day, it seemed mostly like a whole bunch of city, and "big city in Vietnam" is something I'm obviously pretty familiar with. That said, I had a wonderful time hanging out with my good frien...

Conquering the Hải Vân Pass

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Hello and xin chào! My time in Vietnam is wrapping up soon, so I've been ticking off the last few boxes of places I want to see here. Two weeks ago, I took a sleeper train right after class from Hanoi down to the Central Vietnamese city of Huế , which I visited in January. From there, I rented a motorbike to cross the coastal Hải Vân Pass and then spent the night in Central Vietnam's largest city, Đà Nẵng. It was basically a 24-hour trip with one main activity, so this'll be a pretty brief entry. At the base of the Hải Vân Pass. The sleeper train was a fun experience, and I actually managed to sleep for a good chunk of it! Luckily only one of the other four berths in the cabin was occupied, which meant that it was relatively quiet and spacious. Overall it was a really pleasant way to make the trip down to Huế. My cabin in the morning. The flowers were fake and stuck to the table. Bathrooms notwithstanding, everything was quite clean, but dear Lord was the ...

A Malaysian Doubleheader

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Hello and xin chào! A few weeks ago, lured by round trip flights for under US$100, I headed to Malaysia's bustling capital, Kuala Lumpur, and an erstwhile British hill station known as the Cameron Highlands. This post is a two-for-one deal—I didn't do much in the Cameron Highlands besides take in the pretty views of tea plantations and bask in the blessedly cool mountain weather, so it doesn't really need its own post. First, though, Kuala Lumpur (called KL by residents and visitors alike). Now the center of a metropolitan area of nearly 7.5 million people, Kuala Lumpur was founded in the 1850s as a trading post for nearby tin mines, and it remained a small town well into the 1890s. It shares much of its history with Penang and Singapore : 19th- and 20th-century British colonization and contemporaneous immigration from southern China and, to a lesser extent, southern India. Today, the city's population is roughly 45 percent Malay, 43 percent Chinese, and 10 percent ...